Ijen: When You Think Your Life is Hard

Matahari belum muncul. Pagi-pagi sekali kami berangkat dari penginapan, semua sudah siap dengan sepatu kets atau sepatu trekking dan backpack. Jaket tebal membalut tubuh kami, tiba saatnya berjalan tiga kilometer di tengah pekatnya pagi yang masih gelap. 

Sun still hiding when we departed from the small inn where we stayed. Everybody ready with their sneakers and trekking shoes, also with the backpack. Thick jacket wrapped our body to keep us warm, and now it's time to walk about 3 kilometers in the dark before the sun appear.

almost sunrise and we can see the smoke

When the sun came, here's some of the view

Saya sudah lama tidak trekking sehingga berjalan pelan agar tidak kehabisan napas. Udara dingin tidak terasa saat trekking, badan bahkan terasa hangat karena tubuh terus bergerak. Dua jam kemudian kami tiba di puncak, blue fire terlihat di kejauhan di bawah dan kemudian perlaham matahari muncul.

It was quite some time since my last trekking session so I had to walk slowly to keep my breath stable. The cold weather didn't bother us at all, it was even felt warm due to our constant movement. Then, two hours later we arrived at the top with the blue fire visible downhill, and then slowly the sun came up.

and the crater

Warna kawah ijen kemudian membiru tosca, membuat kami sontak berdecak kagum dan kesenangan sendiri. Angin bertiup kencang di atas, saya mengeluarkan jas hujan untuk menahan angin dan masih kedinginan. Namun pemandangan yang saya lihat jauh lebih berarti, apalah artinya menahan dingin saat anda disuguhi pemandangan seperti ini..

The Ijen crater then turned turquoise, so beautiful and amazed us. At the top, wind blew so hard that I had to put on my raincoat and still felt freezing. But one thing for sure, this view is priceless, well I don't mind a bit (or more of) freezing when I can see this kind of view.

Kawah Gunung Ijen terletak di perbatasan Bondowoso dan Banyuwangi, Jawa Timur. Jarak tiga kilometer tidaklah seberapa dibanding apa yang didapat setelah berjalan dua jam. Kawah berwarna turquoise dengan asap sulfur yang membumbung di sisi danau sulfur ini, indah adalah kata yang merendahkan apa yang saya lihat. Terlalu indah mungkin, atau keterlaluan indahnya.

Ijen Mountain Crater is located on the border of Bondowoso and Banyuwangi, East Java. 3 kilometers distant was nothing compared to what you would see after that two hours walk. The turquoise-colored crater with the sulfur fumes rose alongside the sulfur-lake. Beautiful was a degrading word for this view. Maybe it’s too beautiful, or outrageously beautiful.

Ijen tidak hanya memberikan kenikmatan visual. Ada sisi hati yang sedikit sakit saat mengetahui mereka yang bekerja menyambung hidup dengan menambang ijen. Para penambang Ijen mesti melewati rute trekking dengan membawa beban 80 hingga 90 kilogram belerang.

Ijen not only satisfied you visually. It also like a stab in my heart, knowing how hard they work for living. These Ijen miners have to walk such a long hard route while carrying 80 to 90 kilograms of sulfur every day.

Kami bertemu turis asing berperawakan tinggi yang mencoba mengangkat keranjang berisi belerang tersebut namun sesenti pun tidak terangkat. "This is crazy, I can't imagine a human being can lift this and walk that far, few times every day," ujarnya.

We met a foreign tourist who look like someone who is strong and tall. He was about to lift the bucket of sulfur but the basket didn't move, not even a slight centimeter. “This is crazy, I can’t imagine a human being can lift this and walk that far, few times every day,” he said.

 

Hal yang akan membuat kita merasa sedih adalah bahwa penambang ini hanya dibayar 650 rupiah per kilogramnya. Setiap hari mereka harus melalui rute ini bulak balik dan hanya mendapat sekitar 50 ribu rupiah.

Thing that make me sad was the fact that these miner were only paid 2 cent,- per Pound. Each day they have to walk the route back and forth and only get less than 4 US Dollar.

"Cari duit susah banget ya"

“Getting money is not that easy, huh?”

Namun saya memperhatikan mereka, semua ramah, mereka berjalan sambil ngobrol dengan sesama penambang, menyapa kami saat kami berpapasan, bahkan memberi tahu agar berhati-hati saat berjalan menurun.

However, when I paid attention to them, they all are so friendly, they walk the route, carrying such heavy loads while having chit-chat with fellow miners, greeted us as we passed by and even told us to be careful walking down the hill.

Mungkin definisi kebahagiaan kita berbeda. Meski mungkin para penambang ini benar-benar bahagia, saya berharap mereka dapat dibayar lebih dari apa yang mereka kerjakan.

Maybe we have a different definition of happiness. Though these miners are truly happy, I still do hope they could get paid more from what they do now.

@marischkaprue - she knows life could be hard sometimes, but it will still beautiful

Photos by Ferry Rusli

NOTES:

• You can help a bit! Beberapa penambang menjual belerang yang sudah dibentuk dan berukuran kecil, hanya Rp. 5000,- , buy 1 and pay like you buy 2 or 4. Kecil untuk kita tapi bayangkan hanya untuk mendapat 10 ribu rupiah biasanya mereka harus membawa 15 kilogram belerang.
• You can help a bit! Some miners sell the shaped-sulfur in a small size with only 5.ooo rupiahs, buy 1 and pay like you buy 2 or 4. It is just a little thing for us but imagine that only to get Rp 10.000,- usually they have to carry about 15 kilograms sulfurs.
• Terdapat Trip Organizer yang menyediakan open trip ke Ijen seperti Fun Adventure, 3 days trip termasuk Taman Nasional Baluran & Taman Nasional Meru Betiri biasanya dengan budget Rp. 899.000,-
• There is Trip Organizer that provides open trip to Ijen like Fun Adventure, 3 days trip was included Taman Nasional Baluran & Taman Nasional Meru Betiri usually with Rp 899.000,-.
• Contact Fun Adventure di +62 81 23410 5848 
• Contact Fun Adventure at +62 81 23410 5848

First time trekking together!

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Mangrove Bedul, Woles di Gondang Gandung

Wisata mangrove sama dengan ngeliatin bakau dan bosan? Well, not for me, saya selalu senang menyusuri hutan mangrove dan menikmati saat saat bersantai, slow down dan "woles" di atas kapal.

Mangrove forest tour is boring since you can only see trees? Well, not for me, I'm always having great time on the boat through the river and seeing mangrove forest, a relax moment, slow down, or what we say "woles"

Visit this place with Terselubung

Di Taman Nasional Alas Purwo, kita dapat menyusuri area hutan mangrove terbesar di Pulau Jawa. Ada beberapa area hutan mangrove di taman nasional, mulai dari area Teluk Yangpang, Segara Anak, Edi Sunglon Ombo, Serpat, Blok Slenggrong hingga Pondok Kobong. Namun area terbesar dan yang menjadi lokasi wisata mangrove adalah area sekitar Sungai Segara Anak, dengan akses masuk melalui Bedul di Tegaldimo.

In Alas Purwo National Park, we can see the largest mangrove forest area in Java. There are several areas of mangrove forest in this national parks, from the Yangpang gulf area, Segara Anak, Edi Sunglon Ombo, Serpat ,Blok Slenggrong to Pondok Kobong. But the biggest area which became the place for mangrove tour is the area around the Segara Anak river, with entrance through Bedul in Tegaldimo. 

Local called this wooden boat "gondang gandung"

Big tree around the tidal forest

during low tide

Dari Bedul hanya perlu berjalan kaki lima menit menuju dermaga untuk naik perahu kayu khas disini yaitu gondang gandung. Selain itu, jika ingin mencoba menanam mangrove bisa dilakukan di area dekat dermaga sebelum mulai menyusuri Sungai Segara Anak.

From Bedul you'll only need a five-minutes walk to the dock for boat ride using "gondang gandung" which is the local name for the wooden boat. Also, you can try plant some mangroves in area near the dock before you start the tour through the river.

You can plant little mangal here

Fun to dip into the mud!

Kami dipinjamkan sepatu boot yang persis seperti booties untuk diving karena akan masuk ke tanah yang basah khas area mangrove, meski saat itu sedang surut. Area Bedul terus menerus ditanami mangrove baru untuk mengembalikan habitat ke kondisi sebelumnya. Hutan mangrove punya banyak fungsi di lingkungan, mulai dari menahan abrasi pantai, menahan peresapan air laut, menahan angin, menurunkan kadar CO2 dan bahan tercemar, hingga menjadi tempat hidup dan berkembang biak berbagai biota laut.

We'll be needing to use boots which are exactly like booties for diving. The reason is because we'll get into the mud area, even though you will do this during low tide. Bedul area is constantly planted with mangroves to keep the environment healthy. Mangrove forest have several functions in the environment, it resist the abrasion, resist salinization, as a protector against the wind, lowering CO2 levels and contaminated materials, also as a place for marine life to breed and live.

The view near the dock

You can see local fisherman also

Green therapy

Satu hal lagi, hutan mangrove juga menyenangkan sebagai lokasi wisata, karena anda dapat merasakan menyusuri perairan dengan tutupan tanaman di kiri dan kanan sungai. Area mangrove di sekitar Segara Anak ini luasnya 866 hektar dengan ciri khas perahu gondang gandung yang dapat menampung belasan orang.

 
One more thing, mangrove forests are also great as tourist destination, you can feel the the relaxing feeling of crossing the river with green plants all over the river side. Mangrove areas around Segara Anak extent 866 acres with the typical gondang gandung boat that can accommodate dozen of people.

Dari sini kita dapat memilih, mau lanjut ke area Plengkung dengan berjalan kaki dan perjalanan naik jeep, atau kembali ke Bedul. Yang manapun yang anda pilih, menyusuri sungai dengan perahu kayu sambil melihat kehijauan selama sekitar satu jam itu sangat menenangkan.

From here we can choose, to continue your trip to Plengkung by walking and also jeep ride, or going back to Bedul. Whatever you choose, strolling down the river on a wooden boat while watching greens everywhere for about an hour is very relaxing.

@marischkaprue - almost sleeping on the boat

NOTES:

• Untuk menuju ke pintu masuk Bedul, akses antara lain dari Banyuwangi - Jember - Benaluk - Purwoharjo - Desa Sumber Asri dan masuk ke area wisata Bedul.
• To get into the entrance of Bedul, the access are through Banyuwangi - Jember - Benaluk - Purwoharjo - Sumber Asri Village and get into Bedul area.
• Kontak Taman Nasional Alas Purwo: +62333 428675 or email btnap@tnalaspurwo.org
• Alas Purwo National Park, contact +62333 428675 or email btnap@tnalaspurwo.org
• Ada tiga penginapan di Plengkung, Taman Nasional Alas Purwo yaitu Joyo's Surf Camp, G-Land Surf Camp dan Bobby Surf Camp. Rekomendasi saya di Joyo's Surf Camp karena lokasi yang paling dekat dengan entry Pantai Plengkung, wifi internet gratis dan free yoga setiap hari.
• There are three hotels in Plengkung, Alas Purwo National Park which are Joyo's Surf Camp, G-Land Surf Camp and Bobby's Surf Camp. I recommend Joyo's Surf Camp since its location is the closest to the Plengkung Beach entry, free wifi for internet access and free yoga every day.
• Untuk rate harga silahkan cek langsung ke Joyo's Surf Camp di 031-5314752-53 atau email ke surabaya_piw@yahoo.com karena harga setiap season berbeda namun untuk rate lokal ada harga khusus.
• For prices please check directly to Joyo's Surf Camp in +6231-5314752-53 or email to surabaya_piw@yahoo.com because prices may vary each season but there is a special price for local tourist.
• Raja Wisata juga menawarkan paket wisata ke G-Land dengan berbagai pilihan wisata lainnya di seputar Taman Nasional Alas Purwo, jika ingin mudah maka lebih direkomendasikan untuk ikut tour dari Raja Wisata, hubungi 08569806685 untuk paket wisata ke G-Land, bahkan Raja Wisata mengeluarkan paket dengan harga di bawah 1,5 juta per orang untuk paket 3D/ 2N.
• Raja Wisata also offers tour packages to G-Land with a wide choice of other destination around the Alas Purwo National Park, if you want comfort of tour service then I recommend joining the tour from Raja Wisata, please call 08569806685 for tour packages to G-Land, there are special package at a price below 1.5 million rupiahs per person for 3D / 2N in G-Land.

RELATED STORIES:

• G-Land, The Ultimate Surf Destination
• Parang Ireng Beach, Simply Beautiful! 
• Sunset at G-Land    
• Melepas Tukik di Pantai Ngagelan

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G-Land, The Ultimate Surf Destination

The Ultimate Surf, Photo by Harry Pieters

G-Land terdengar asing, semua yang saya beritahu destinasi saya yang satu ini pasti bertanya dimana dan apa itu G-Land. Namun jika anda berbicara tentang G-Land kepada para surfer, mereka tahu persis karena lokasi ini adalah ultimate destination bagi para surfer, saya menyebut bisa membandingkan sensasi G-Land sebagai sensasi Raja Ampat bagi para divers, mengapa? Just see

G-Land might sounds unfamiliar, everyone I told about this destination always ask what and where is G-Land. But if you ask about G-Land to the surfers, they know exactly because this location is the ultimate destination for surfers, I could compare the sensation from G-Land as Raja Ampat sensation for divers, why? Just see
 

Saya memang tidak familiar dengan surfing. Pernah mencoba sekali di Sumbawa dan seperti layaknya yang terjadi setiap belajar surfing, saya terjatuh berulang ulang dari papan surf hingga akhirnya bisa berdiri beberapa detik saja. Meski sulit, surfing memang menyenangkan, ada sensasi tersendiri saat bisa berdiri di atas ombak.

 
I wasn't familiar with surfing. Tried once in Sumbawa and like everybody else during learning process, I fell over and over again from the surf board until I can stand for few seconds. Although it is difficult, surfing is fun, there are such sensation when you can stand on the surf board.

Our "camp", its better than camp actually. Taken by Samsung NX2000

Nice place in the middle of the jungle. Taken by Samsung NX2000

Setelah perjalanan darat yang cukup lama saya tiba di Joyo's Surf Camp. Ini adalah satu dari tiga penginapan yang ada di G-Land, semuanya penuh dengan surfer dari negara lain. Saya dan teman teman adalah satu satunya turis domestik saat itu, rupanya memang G-Land belum banyak dikenal turis lokal, padahal turis asing dari berbagai negara semua bercampur disini untuk menikmati ombak luar biasa yang ditawarkan G-Land.

After a long road trip I arrived at Joyo's Surf Camp. One from three hotels which exist in G-Land. All of them during peak season is filled with surfers from a lot of countries. Me and my friends at that moment are the only local tourist there. It seems that G-Land is unknown by locals, despite the waves here are totally famous among surfers globally.

Arrived at the surfer's paradise, taken by Samsung NX2000

It's easy to find deers around the beach, taken by Samsung NX2000

Terletak di area Taman Nasional Alas Purwo, Jawa Timur, menikmati G-Land juga berarti menikmati hutan dan kekayaan ragam taman nasional. Saat tiba di depan papan petunjuk saya langsung disambut rusa yang menghampiri pantai di sore hari. Rusa sering ditemui di area Taman Nasional Alas Purwo, di perjalanan sering kami melihat rusa menyeberangi jalanan. Meski biasanya tidak langsung kabur namun rusa ini tetap menjaga jarak dengan kami, manusia.

Located in the area of ​​the Alas Purwo National Park, East Java, enjoying G-Land also means enjoying the rich diversity of forests and national park. When we arrived, I was immediately got a nice greet by a deer that milling about the coast in the afternoon. Deers are often found in this areas, during road trip to the Joyo's Camp, we often saw deer crossing the road. Although they don't immediately run away but the deer remains aloof with us, human.

Nice waves! Taken by Samsung NX2000

Sliding, Taken by Samsung NX2000

Pantai Plengkung adalah nama asli G-Land, nama ini berawal dari nama teluk Grajagan yang merupakan posisi Pantai Plengkung yaitu di cerukan ujung Jawa Timur dengan Laut Hindia di area selatan. Nama Grajagan rupanya cukup sulit diingat dan dilafalkan oleh surfer asing sehingga mereka lebih sering menyebut G-Land, the land of G, Grajagan. Nama inilah yang kemudian mendunia karena ombak fantastis yang dapat mencapai tinggi 5 meter bahkan lebih.

Plengkung Beach was the original name of G-Land, this came up from the name of the bay which is Grajagan Bay located in the overdraft of  East Java with the Indian Ocean in the south area . Grajagan name apparently quite difficult to remember and pronounce by foreign surfers so they called it G-Land, which is the land of G, Grajagan. Then this name became a worldwide name known for a place with fantastic waves which can reach height of 5 meters and even more .

  

The beach around G-Land is also nice, Taken by Samsung NX2000

Yang menarik, ombak di G-Land tidak hanya satu tipe. Ombak biasa yang dapat dicoba oleh surfer amatir hingga ombak bermeter meter dimana perlu tingkat keahlian yang tinggi untuk menaklukkannya ada disini. Susuri Plengkung dari area Kacangan hingga Bebekan, titik titik ombak berderet menyajikan pilihan tipe ombak bagi surfer manapun yang datang.

The waves at G-Land is various. Regular waves which can be attempted by an amateur surfer until an ultimate waves which require a high level of expertise to conquer are here in G-Land. There area a lots of surf spots from Kacangan area until Bebekan in the northern area with different kind of difficulties which provide various waves for any surfers.

The surf map!

Jika dalam dunia diving setiap lokasi punya spot diving dengan nama masing masing, begitu pula G-Land. Titik dari Tanjung Purwo bagian selatan dimulai dari "Kongs," "Keyhole," "Fan Palm," "The Ledge," "Money Trees," "Launching Pad," "Speedies," "Chickens," hingga "20-20s" dan "The Bombie" yang lebih terletak di area menjauhi pesisir.

In diving world, each diving location have dive spots with each particular name, so does in G-Land. These surf spots starts from southern of Purwo Cape which is "Kongs," "Keyhole, " "Fan Palm, " "The Ledge, " "Money Trees, " "Launching Pad," "Speedies," "Chickens," up to "20-20s" and "the Bombie " which is located in areas away from the coast.

Setiap titik punya karakteristik masing masing seperti "Speedies" yang dijuluki demikian karena kecepatan ombaknya, hingga "20-20s" yang dinamakan dari jarak tempuh yaitu 20 menit berjalan kaki dari area utama Plengkung.

Every surf spots has each characteristic. For example the "Speedies" name derived from the speed of the waves, or "20-20s" which called from the distance, 20 minutes walk from the main area of Plengkung.

Taking photos of the surfers, Taken by Samsung NX2000

Mungkin jika anda bukan surfer tidak akan terlalu tertarik mendengar penjelasan ini, sayapun bukan namun saat saya punya kesempatan untuk melihat langsung aksi surfer dari dekat ini sungguh merupakan pengalaman yang seru. Saya diantar naik perahu mendekati area "Money Trees" dan mengamati surfer dari jarak aman. 

Maybe if you aren't surfer you will not interested that much, but I'm not a surfer myself but when I got a chance to see the action directly from the boat near the waves, it is really exciting. We took a boat to approach "Money Trees" and watch the surfers from a safe distance.

Its really fun to see the surfers, Taken by Samsung NX2000

Melihat manusia manusia tangguh yang mengayuh hingga ke titik ombak dan mengambil momen yang tepat hingga saat ombak bermeter meter naik dan mereka dengan indahnya meluncur bersama ombak adalah sensasi visual yang luar biasa. Kami tidak sadar berseru menyemangati setiap ada surfer yang berusaha masuk saat ombak datang dan sedikit mengaduh saat melihat mereka terjatuh kemudian tergulung ombak di saat detik beradu ini kurang tepat.

Looking at those tough surfers pedaling to the waves and took the right moment when a high waves came and then they are gracefully sliding with the waves is a great visual sensation, even just by watching them. Spontaneously we cheered every time a surfer tried to get into the waves, or moan a little when we saw them fell and rolled by the waves when the collision time wasn't precise.
 

Can't stop looking at them, Taken by Samsung NX2000

The wave hunters, Taken by Samsung NX2000

Surfing memang olah raga yang memerlukan keahlian dan latihan yang terus menerus, namun saya yakin sensasi saat meluncur bersama ombak, apalagi ombak sempurna yang dinamakan barrel karena bentuknya yang silinder adalah candu bagi siapapun.

Surfing is a sport which requires skills and constant practice. But I 'm sure the sensation when gliding along the waves, and maybe even the perfect waves called barrel because of the cylinder shape is opium for everyone.

As a non-surfer, I can enjoy G-Land as well. Taken by Samsung NX2000

Saya mungkin tidak akan menaklukkan ombak di G-Land karena surfing maybe is not my thing, tapi ingin sekali rasanya mengundang surfer surfer Indonesia untuk menikmati ombak disini. Saat ini saya belum punya lensa tele di kamera saya sehingga hasil foto surfing bagi saya kurang maksimal, namun jika saya datang lagi suatu saat, lengkap dengan lensa tele, saya ingin mendapatkan momen surfer lokal yang sedang menaklukkan barrel. Because the ultimate is here, right on our own backyard..

I probably will not conquer the waves at G-Land because simply maybe surfing is not my thing, but deep in my heart I really wants to invite Indonesian surfers to enjoy the waves here. Right now I haven't got the right telephoto lens to capture the moment perfectly, but when I came again someday, complete with a right tools, I want to capture a moment, when local surfers conquered the barrel. Because the ultimate is here, right on our backyard..

@marischkaprue - can't stop the wave from coming but she can choose which one to surf

NOTES:

• G-Land terletak di Taman Nasional Alas Purwo, Banyuwangi, Jawa Timur (lihat peta)
• G-Land located in Alas Purwo National Park, Banyuwangi, East Java (look at the map) 

• Ada tiga penginapan di G-Land yaitu Joyo's Surf Camp, G-Land Surf Camp dan Bobby Surf Camp. Rekomendasi saya di Joyo's Surf Camp karena lokasi yang paling dekat dengan entry Pantai Plengkung, wifi internet gratis dan free yoga setiap hari.
• There are three hotels in G-Land which are Joyo's Surf Camp, G-Land Surf Camp and Bobby's Surf Camp. I recommend Joyo's Surf Camp since its location is the closest to the Plengkung Beach entry, free wifi for internet access and free yoga every day.
• Untuk rate harga silahkan cek langsung ke Joyo's Surf Camp di 031-5314752-53 atau email ke surabaya_piw@yahoo.com karena harga setiap season berbeda namun untuk rate lokal ada harga khusus.
• For prices please check directly to Joyo's Surf Camp in +6231-5314752-53 or email to surabaya_piw@yahoo.com because prices may vary each season but there is a special price for local tourist.
• Raja Wisata juga menawarkan paket wisata ke G-Land dengan berbagai pilihan wisata lainnya di seputar Taman Nasional Alas Purwo, jika ingin mudah maka lebih direkomendasikan untuk ikut tour dari Raja Wisata, hubungi 08569806685 untuk paket wisata ke G-Land, bahkan Raja Wisata mengeluarkan paket dengan harga di bawah 1,5 juta per orang untuk paket 3D/ 2N.
• Raja Wisata also offers tour packages to G-Land with a wide choice of other destination around the Alas Purwo National Park, if you want comfort of tour service then I recommend joining the tour from Raja Wisata, please call 08569806685 for tour packages to G-Land, there are special package at a price below 1.5 million rupiahs per person for 3D / 2N in G-Land.
• Thanks to Harry Pieters who gave me one of his incredible photos. He is a surf photographer at G-Land. His works are amazing, you can see on his instagram here

  

RELATED STORIES:

• Sunset at G-Land  
• Parang Ireng Beach, Simply Beautiful!  
• Melepas Tukik di Pantai Ngagelan  
• Mangrove Bedul 

I travel around G-Land with this small camera, Samsung NX2000. It's a mirrorless camera I can't go without now :)

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